In 2002, the federal government implemented Indonesia’s largest marine park – Taman Nasional Teluk Cenderawasih. Cenderawasih Bay lies on the north-eastern coast of West Papua, Indonesia. Prior to tectonic movement, slivers of land sealed the bay allowing for marine life to evolve in isolation for millions of years, thus producing an ancient sea with a high percentage of endemic fish and coral species. Considered today as one of the last remaining pristine reefs in the world, Cenderawasih bay is a stunning location.

In addition to the pristine reefs and unique fish species, this region harbours a resident population of whale sharks. Each year Michael Aw from Ocean Geographic runs specialised expeditions to Cenderawasih Bay onboard MSY Seahorse with Txus. It was a privilege to join an expedition this year and have my first encounter with these amazing sharks.

In the south west of Cenderawasih bay, roughly 23 bagans (local fishing platforms) spread across Kwatisore bay.These bagans can stay in the same area anywhere between 2 weeks to several months, accompanied by the whale sharks almost every day. Fishing nets drape from underneath the bagans and are lowered at night then raised in the morning. Occasionally, the fishermen end up with very large-sized by-catch when the whale sharks are raised along with the baitfish. However, given the mutually beneficial relationship between the fishermen and whale sharks, they are carefully released from the nets – a complete contrast to what would occur in the same situation elsewhere. In fact fishermen in Kwatisore bay value their presence, which in turn enhances their livelihood. See for yourself here…

This unique location and behaviour allows visitors to spend hours watching these sharks each day. Furthermore, the sharks appear unphased by the human encounters as they continue to swim figure of eights around the hanging nets – going vertical to consume the baitfish. We encountered up to 6 sharks at once during this expedition, ranging from 2-6m, although numbers have reached 12 before with some measuring up to 11m.

Overall, the combination of pristine reefs featuring high biodiversity, this whale shark phenomenon, and the cultural influence found within Cenderawasih bay, creates an experience like no other! Thank you for all your support Michael Aw, Ocean Geographic and Txus.