In the Heart of the Coral Triangle

Otto’s Reef, Kimbe Bay, Papua New Guinea. Photo by Olivia Johnson

The term “healthy coral” is not as common to come across these days, let alone to see. So, when you do see healthy coral, and a lot of it, you often have to do a double take.

I was beyond excited to see my first Mandarin Fish! Found at Joy’s Reef, Kimbe Bay. Photo by Olivia Johnson

I have experienced coral bleaching at its worst, particularly when I worked as a Marine Biologist in the Maldives at the end of 2016. The global coral bleaching event that occurred in May of 2016 had catastrophic impacts to many coral reef ecosystems around the world, devastating major reefs including the infamous Great Barrier Reef, as well as those in the Maldives.

A ball of Barracuda, Bradford’s Shoal, Kimbe Bay. Photo by Olivia Johnson

Reefs that were crumbling before your eyes was just heartbreaking, but I think the saddest part of all for me was after guiding guests on snorkelling tours, their joy at “how beautiful the reefs were”. Of course, you would smile and agree and luckily there was still an immense amount of diversity and fish life for them to see. But for these guests to not know what a healthy coral reef should look like, has again driven me to learn how we can communicate what is happening underneath the surface in a way which everyone can understand, not just scientists.

Photo by Olivia Johnson
PNG provided the perfect opportunity for macro photography – a small anemone shrimp. Photo by Olivia Johnson

So back to my opening statement, “healthy coral”; well in this situation this was a term that could be used over and over again. I was extremely fortunate to be hosted by the wonderful Max, Cecile and Cheyne Benjamin at Walindi Plantation Resort in Papua New Guinea for nearly two weeks. Renowned for its spectacular diving, Papua New Guinea boasts an incredible number of glorious reefs, of particular noteworthy, those in the incredible Kimbe Bay where Walindi can be found.

The magnificent Otto’s Reef from above – photo by Olivia Johnson

The greatest marine diversification of coral on Earth occurs in the region boarded by the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea, East Indonesia and the southern Philippines, which is termed the ‘Coral Triangle’. It is home to 75% of the world’s coral species in an area covered by less than 2% of the world’s oceans, making it the most diverse place on Earth for both coral and fish diversity. Kimbe Bay is located in the Bismarck Sea, which is most central of the Coral Triangle, therefore I was truly in the middle of the heart.

The incredible Whip Corals of Kimbe Bay – photo by Olivia Johnson

Walindi Plantation Resort was founded in 1983, by Max and Cecile, and this incredible couple has over the years created a secluded haven for all nature-lovers but particularly for divers and snorkelers with three vessels onsite including Ema, Cheyne, and Charmaine as well as liveaboard operations off MV FeBrina.

My favourite and by far the hardest shot from PNG, a tiny One-lined Clingfish in the base of a Crinoid (photo by Olivia Johnson)

During my two weeks at Walindi, I got to dive in, hands down, some of the most incredible coral reefs in the world. This included sites such as Vanessa’s Reef, Susan’s Reef, Bradford’s Shoal, Otto’s Reef, Zero, Joelle’s, Restorf Island, Joy’s Reef, JJ’s Reef, Cape Heussner and Anne Sophie’s, and that’s just naming a few. These reefs were seriously out of this world for both the visual awe of the underwater world, as well as the diversity and health of the reef (particularly for photography)!

A small crab blends well into its Gorgonian home – photo by Olivia Johnson
A HUGE Barrel sponge found frequently on the reefs in Kimbe Bay – photo by Olivia Johnson

As well as getting the opportunity to dive, I was also in PNG to do help with some marine conservation work. Just a short walk from Walindi Resort, I got the privilege to work alongside the local non-for-profit NGO, Mahonia Na Dari (MND), which in the local language translates to ‘Guardians of the Sea’. MND is dedicated to conservation of the marine environment of Papua New Guinea, but in particular Kimbe Bay, with a particular focus on education. Their mission is to understand and conserve the local natural environment of Kimbe Bay and Papua New Guinea for the benefits of present and future generations.

Mahonia Na Dari entrance sign, part of the Walindi Nature Centre – photo by Olivia Johnson
A pari of curious Clown Fish – photo by Olivia Johnson

MND started in 1997 through cooperative efforts between The Nature Conservancy, the European Union Islands Regional Environmental Program and Walindi Plantation Resort. Since this time, MND have connected with over 250 000 students and teachers, local communities and other organisations with an interest in the marine environment and education.

Batfish cruising along the Restorf Island Reef – photo by Olivia Johnson
Photo by Olivia Johnson

At MND I worked alongside local marine biologists Somei and Elizabeth, as well as Director Peter Miller, helping to edit and finalise the new marine biology and ecology curriculum to be implemented by the local primary and secondary schools. This resource is facilitated through the Marine Environmental Education Program (MEEP) founded by MND.

A Black Coral shrimp making its way along – photo by Olivia Johnson

The MEEP program teaches High School, Primary and Elementary students and teachers about the biology and ecology of coral reefs, the threats these reefs face, and about the management and conservation measures that can be taken to help protect them. Through the MEEP sessions MND provide locals with the tools for marine education and awareness program has proven to be a powerful tool in building support for conservation, increasing environmental awareness and inspiring local action to protect reefs, waterways, turtle nesting areas, seagrass beds, mangrove areas and cultural sites.

Purple Dragon Nudibranch, Pteraeolidia ianthina – photo by Olivia Johnson
Colourful Christmas Tree worms, Restorf Island Reef, Kimbe Bay. Photo by Olivia Johnson

MND operates from the Walindi Nature Centre, this centre also provides host as a research centre to a range of international scientist who come to undertake fieldwork, as well as facilitating student education programs, conservation and community awareness projects in the heart of Kimbe Bay.

A Clown Fish, Amphiprion ocellaris,staring off into the big blue – photo by Olivia Johnson
The Maroon Clownfish or Spine-cheeked Anemone Fish, Premnas biaculeatus, one of the 9 species of Clown Fish found in Kimbe Bay – photo by Olivia Johnson

I was fortunate enough to meet two scientists from Boston University, Tina and Rebecca who were undertaking their research on Clown Fish in Kimbe Bay. Now another incredible fact about Kimbe Bay – it is home to 9 different species of Clown Fish! 9!!! I think that’s unbelievable. It was fascinating to learn more about the research that was being undertaken by the Boston Students and how they worked with MND to conduct their research. Tina and Rebecca were specifically studying the behaviour of the Clown Fish species, Amphiprion ocellaris, with various sites located around Kimbe Bay.

One of the Boston University Clown Fish, Amphiprion ocellaris, study sites at Restorf Island, Kimbe Bay – photo by Olivia Johnson
Photo by Olivia Johnson
Clark’s Anemone Fish – photo by Olivia Johnson

MND is a leading advocate for marine conservation on a national scale, facilitating marine research, education and awareness, resulting in the promotion of protection of PNG’s abundant biodiversity and sustainable use of marine resources by the local communities. As many people know, environmental research and education go hand-in-hand. MND offer a unique opportunity for Marine Scientists and other researchers to work on a variety of projects that both advance collective knowledge and benefit the community through education opportunities.

A brilliant Peacock Mantis Shrimp curious as to what is happening – photo by Olivia Johnson

To ensure their educational messages are delivered to as many people as possible, MND conducts outreach activities, visiting schools and villages both in West New Britain and further around the country, concentrating its community conservation efforts around the coastal areas between Talasea to the West and Lolobau Island near the border with East and West New Britain.

An incredible Gorgonian – photo by Olivia Johnson
A very well camouflaged Shrimp in the base of a Crinoid (also known as a Feather Star) – photo by Olivia Johnson

The Nature Conservancy (USA) established a network of protected inshore reefs or Locally Managed Marine Areas (LMMA’s) around Kimbe Bay from 1996 to 2012. I was fortunate enough to work with Somei, surveying and mapping some of the LMMA’s adjacent to MND for monitoring applications and an update on species inhabiting the reefs.

A favourite little creature of mine, a beautiful Nudibranch, Chromodoris annae – photo by Olivia Johnson
A curious Batfish following us for most of our dive – photo by Olivia Johnson

Community awareness is the foundation of the LMMA program, as the entire community has to embrace its concept for it to work. The awareness program focus’ on the importance of reefs to communities, the interrelationships between reefs and other habitats, and ways to sustainably manage marine resources to ensure the preservation of the high levels of biodiversity found there and ensure future food security.

Popcorn Shrimp hiding in the base of a Mushroom Coral – photo by Olivia Johnson
Photo by Olivia Johnson

MND work with local villages and communities to ensure the LMMA’s remain protected through educational talks and sessions. They show the locals first-hand the difference that can be made to surrounding reefs, in particular as food sources for these communities, when they continue to protect the dedicated LMMA reefs. This network is helping to ensure that the natural marine resources in those areas will endure over future generations.

A huge school of Barracuda swarming around the magnificent Bradford’s Shoal – photo by Olivia Johnson
A sneak peak of what lies above and below at Restorf Island, Kimbe Bay. Photo by Olivia Johnson

Papua New Guinea was absolutely spectacular! I cannot thank Max, Cecile, Cheyne, Ema, Peter, Jane, Martha, Somei, Elizabeth and the rest of the incredible staff at Walindi Plantation resort for inviting me and allowing me to work with Mahonia Na Dari, but particularly for sharing this absolutely incredible part of the world with me.

Another perfect macro subject – photo by Olivia Johnson
Peter, Elizabeth, Somei and Olivia with the OWUSS Flag at Mahonia Na Dari

Of course, a huge thank you again to my incredible sponsors including OWUSSRolexTUSAWaterproof InternationalDANPADIMako EyewearReef Photo & Video and Nauticam.

Cecile, Olivia and Max at Walindi Plantation Resort

From PNG I will be heading to Ticao Island in the Philippines for the next month. Here I will be assisting with research on Manta Rays with the Large Marine Vertebrate Research Institute Philippines, also known as LAMAVE on their Manta Bowl Project.

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